Monday, September 13, 2010

Ramadan


Just in case you didn't know:

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic Calendar. It is the Islamic month of fasting, in which Muslims refrain from eating and drinking all manner of badness. Fasting is intended to teach Muslims about patience, humility, and spirituality. It is a time for Muslims to fast for the sake of Allah and to offer more prayer than usual. During Ramadan, Muslims ask forgiveness for past sins, pray for guidance and help in refraining from everyday evils, and try to purify themselves through self-restraint and good deeds.


Ok, now that you know what Ramadan is let me tell you a little bit about being an American non-Muslim living in a Muslim country during the month of Ramadan. I chose to try the fasting... not eating until 7:30pm was difficult. More difficult was not drinking anything. I had the choice to get up at 5am and eat breakfast but that was a particularly crazy idea... I preferred to sleep. All in all I fasted for 15 of the 30ish days. Just so you know, when it is Ramadan you are hungry, Gambian's are hungry and everyone is angry.

One day I went to the market and I wondered around in a daze of hunger trying to purchase juice. I was trying to talk to a women and it took me like 5 minutes to understand that the women was telling me the juice was 3 dalais. You should not try and shop on an empty stomach. Gelly rides were worse. Normally gelly rides are uncomfortable but bearable, when you haven't eaten they are pretty much hell on earth. Imagine, if you will, being crammed into a large-ish van with 20 other people, everyone is hungry and thirsty and at least mildly peeved about something and then add to that, me. I am half perched on the bench (cause there is never enough room) screaming in my head "could everyone just shut up, and could someone get some freakin water." So after this travel/market debacle I decided it would be best for my sanity and the safety of others if I refrained from travel on days in which I was fasting.

I spent a majority of my fasting days in village, this meant that I hung around my compound and for the most part did nothing. At first I was like "hey I should get some work done" until I realized no one else was doing any work either. I mean things still functioned but at a minimal level. So I read, napped and hung out with my family and village friends. The question of the month was "Kaddy, are you fasting today?" and when the answer was yes they went crazy. Gambian's really like it when you try any aspect of their culture, they love it when you wear African dress, when you cook African food, when you participate in ceremonies and when you observe Muslim customs.

The best part of Ramadan was the days of feasting that took place when the moon was spotted and the new lunar month began and Ramadan was over. They call this holiday Koriteh (have no idea how to spell this). On the first day I had three breakfasts; coos with sour milk, a savory rice dish called nankatango, and peanut-rice porridge with sour milk... all so tasty. I was so full. We followed that up with three lunches; benichien (fried rice), domada (spicy peanut sauce) and choo (spicy onion sauce). I can't even remember dinner, I'm pretty sure I never got around to eating it because I was so stuffed from all the other food. And then the next day we did it all over again.

On holidays like Koriteh all the people in the village (who can afford it) buy really nice clothes and show it off. The men and children show theirs off when the go to the mosque to pray in the morning, the women and children dress up in their finest at night and parade around the village showing off their fancy outfits and visiting with their friends. Children come around asking adults for salibo, which is an offering such as candy, money or a prayer. I gave out candy and my mom gave out dalasi. I too took part in this clothes buying extravaganza and got my own fancy complet made with choop (hand dyed fabric) and embroidery. It was expensive but I wanted to look good because in a way I represent my family and I want to show the village that I am well taken care of. Below is a picture of me rockin my fancy digs.

Me and My sister YaBinta, rocking Gambian high fashion.


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